Sunday, July 27, 2008

The House of Creed

Gentlemen wear different after shaves and cologne. But please do me a favor. If Brut by Faberge is your thing, don't read this entry!

I have seen a lot of otc fragrances with heavy advertising and some of you guys out there probably love the Safari line by Ralph Lauren, or Drakkar Noir, or Davidoff or some other perfume like it. I'm not going to judge you for it. That's cool. BUT... if you're interested in wearing scents that have been the staple for folks like Winston Churchill and Cary Grant, then the House of Creed http://www.creedperfumes.us/index2.php is amazing. Creed's Tabarome and Irish Tweed lines are superb. So is Neuroli Sauvage that has a very fresh, crisp scent. The other perfumery that I really like is Bond No. 9 or http://www.bondno9.com/catalog/. If smelling good is important to you, check these out.

Friday, July 25, 2008

Savile Row - Harvie & Hudson

I can't remember who coined the phrase "when a man gets tired of London, he gets tired of life." No Gabriel trumpet could have uttered a truer note. I've spent a lot of time in London, and several hours in the bespoke fashion houses. Bespoke (or to be spoken of) refers to the fine art of custom tailoring. Among my many sojourns through the narrow alleys and roads that include Conduit and Jermyn Streets, I have stood mesmerized by the incredible clothing that graces the windows of Savile Row giants. One of these shirtmakers is Harvey & Hudson (http://www.harvieandhudson.com/). One chilly winter morning, in 1999, I met Richard Harvie at his store at 77 Jermyn Street. Richard, a shirtmaker and tie specialist, made the most beautiful shirts on Savile Row. He kindly walked me through the many fabrics and styles of the shirts on display and even gave me his email address at rh@harvieandhudson.com. The telephone number for Harvey and Hudson is 020 7930 3949. I encourage you to view their Web site. I think you'll be blown away.

Thursday, July 24, 2008

Doing my bit for Jersey

I know the Garden State gets a bad rap. But the Garden state boasts of things many other states can't match. A shore in the summer, casinos galore, and some excellent men's clothing stores like Garmany in Red Bank. If you live near the shore or near Wall , NJ, check out http://www.shavesbarbershop.com/Shaves/Index.asp?SPLASH=TRUE for a real girly man experience!

Wednesday, July 23, 2008

The Ultimate Cigar

I don't know if you like cigars or care to smoke them. But if you do, I have to tell you about the most amazing cigar on the market today. It's the Cuban brand Partagas and it is a holy smoke. The J&J Cigar company in Los Cabos, Mexico, sells this cigar along with the finest guayaberas that money can buy. But here's the trick. If you want flavor, tell them to punch your cigar, don't slice it. The aroma and richness of this cigar is pretty amazing. I think it beats a Monte Cristo pants down.

If you're in the United States and within spitting distance of Princeton, NJ or Philadelphia, I also recommend two joints for an incredible experience. The first, in Philadelphia, is the Mahogany Cigar bar http://phillycigarbar.com/ . They've got pictures of Winston Churchill on the wall. Need I say more? Mahogany also offers fine Scotch, warm fireplaces, and free Wifi. Much to the chagrin of folks I know, I've spent many late nights at Mahogany, surfing the net. In Princeton, across from the Princeton library, the Havana Cigar Lounge on Witherspoon Street is also nice, but not as upscale or cozy as Mahogany. They also have a New Hope location.

Below Mahogany is the Holt's Cigar Company. This place has a huge humidor. They've also got fine pens from Omas, leather belts from Montblanc, and lighters from S.T. Dupont. Enjoy.

Sunday, July 20, 2008

Turnbull & Asser (Bespoke)


How to tie a bow tie

I didn't grow up in America, but I live here now. And, much to my chagrin, I've listened to a fascinating diatribe for years on the pros and cons of wearing a bow tie. Never before has such a clothing accessory been so praised, so reviled, often discussed, always misunderstood.

Some of my bond trader friends in NYC tell me that wearing a bow tie suggests a certain kind of arrogance - that the rest of mankind is beneath you. But I think that the right bow tie can make a lovely statement about a man's sense of flair, fashion, confidence, and style.

When I say the right bow tie, I mean one that is actually tied as opposed to clipped. And don't tell me that you can't tie a bow tie. If you can tie your shoe laces, you can tie a bow tie. It's really very simple to master. There are a variety of instuctional videos on You Tube (www.youtube.com) that instruct you on how to tie one. You can also go to the Brooks Brothers Web site at http://www.brooksbrothers.com/TieKnots/bowtie.tem to learn the art of tying a bow tie.

I love the bow ties made by Garrick Anderson in Scotland. They're colorful, of the highest quality, and look great after years of wear. Turnbull & Asser also makes lovely bow ties, many of them made exclusively to match your shirts. You can also buy some very good quality bow ties in lovely colors from Nordstrom (www.nordstrom.com).

I hope you will muster the courage to wear a bow tie one day and walk with confidence into a business meeting. Don't worry what the others might say or think. Be a man.

Thursday, July 17, 2008

Sock it to You

Socks -- they are an important part of your attire. But way too often, I've seen the weirdest colors, patterns, and shapes on people's feet. I don't know where you buy socks, but if you want fine quality that will last you for years, I suggest you invest in the Pantherella line from England. These socks are hand made and the quality is simply amazing. Try on a pair today.

Collar stays

I have a pet peeve. It's those guys who wear formal shirts with dog ear collars. Why is that? I think its because they put plastic stays in their collars and that makes the collar very susceptible to bending. That's why I believe that every business professional should own a pair of good collar stays. They call stays "bones" in England. I've got a few lovely stays that keep my shirts crisp. Depending on what you like to spend, here's the spill. Jan Leslie (former Wharton school) has a beautiful line of color stays that are fun to wear. You can also buy a set from Charles Tyrwhitt, the Madison Avenue and Savile Row clothier. Oh, of course there is Tiffany & Co. for the beautiful sterling silver set. Whatever you buy, just make sure it ain't plastic.

In fact, someone recently tried to sell me a Stefano Ricci shirt. It's a great shirt with genuine mother of pearl buttons. The problem with Ricci is that the collar stay is built into the collar and it's not a metal stay. Over a few wears, the shirt begins to lose its stiff collar appeal. So my recommendation is to only buy shirts that allow you to place a stay in the collar. That way, you won't be barking at your next sales presentation.

Friday, July 4, 2008

Brioni

I've got this weakness for the House of Brioni. They just know how to make shirts. Beautiful shirts in vibrant colors with lovely fabric. I remember visting their store in Rome some years ago. It was an experience. I just don't know how the Italians do it, but they always deliver. Brioni's shirts have become extremely expensive and the exchange rate doesn't help either. But their quality endures and the sheen of their fabric is legendary. Of course, if you're not in shape, Brioni isn't for you. Their shirts are a tad bit fitted. But if you can wear them, the beautiful mother of pearl buttons, the incredible hand stitching, and the cut of the shirt is majestic. Go to http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brioni to find out more.

The two sharpest dressed men I know

I observe the way men dress. And much too often I'm not terribly impressed. As I've heard some say before, fashion can be bought, but style is inherent. Nothing makes me cringe more than to see the number of men who wear odd fitting pants -- indeed the floods seem to be back in style. And some of the combinations, when it comes to color coordination, are astonishing. Yet, my faith in fashion is restored when I see my two friends who take dapper to an entirely new level. The first is Bill Roundtree, at the Neiman Marcus men's suiting department in King of Prussia, PA. Bill is an incredibly sharp dresser and a consummate gentlemen. He's always really well put together and it appears always as though he never even has to try. I once asked Bill how he got such a thick knot on his ties. "If I told you, I'd have to kill you," he responded jokingly. The other guy who graced the pages of Esquire is Clifton Wilson. He used to work in the men's suit department at Nordstrom, but now works for UPS. Clifton introduced me to the three-piece Hickey Freeman suit. Aah...now that's a suit. Peal lapels, side vents, ticket pockets, flared bottoms. Clifton wore a suit like it was made of spandex. It fit him like a glove. I'm not sure where Clifton is these days, but I'm sure he's setting fashion trends at UPS. Thanks to Bill and Clifton for keeping my faith alive in the ability to dress well and look good - always.

Wednesday, July 2, 2008

Nick Hilton

I've been to a lot of great clothing stores in the United States and abroad. But I've got to tell you about this store on Witherspoon Street in Princeton, NJ called Nick Hilton. It's an AMAZING place. Nick has been in the clothing business for years, and you can tell. He knows his fabrics, he knows his styles, he knows his quality. And, he's never pushy. Most importantly, Nick is a gentleman who will sell you things you'll be happy with for years to come.

I first met Nick some years ago, when I was strolling down Witherspoon Street. I saw some very attractive outfits in his store window and had to enter. He's one of the ONLY folks in the area who carries the very stylish Hilditch & Key Shirt. Hilditch & Key can give any shirt a run for its money and the quality is breathtaking. After all, we're talking Savile Row. Nick also sells the famous Crescent Alligator belt that is handmade in Louisiana and he stocks a variety of terrific suits, many from Hickey Freeman and premier Italian fashion houses. Nick's prices are extremely reasonable and his store even includes a woman's section with great tops, shirts, skirts, suits and dresses. He also has carried merchandise from Paul & Shark and Vineyard Vines. All in all, if you are in Princeton, drop by Nick's store and say hello. I can tell you that within minutes you'll take a tremendous liking to him and trust his brilliant ability to fit you appropriately.

Tuesday, July 1, 2008

Andreas Santoni

I've owned a lot of shoes. A lot of shoes. But I have to say that there's nothing that rivals the quality of a Santoni, especially in its price range. The Santoni shoe is incredibly well made, with high end leather, superb construction, and an excellent weight. The're also cutting edge in design and look great with casual trousers or with formal suits. I've been buying Santoni shoes for years now and have to thank my friend Joel Jaffe at Boyd's in Philadelphia for turning me on to them. Gucci and Prada and all the other fashionable stuff may stay hot in the minds of young people, but do me a favor and invest in a pair of Santonis. You'll thank me for doing so.

A Close Shave

I'm the consummate metrosexual. And I know my products. That's especially when it comes to getting a close shave. I think if you use the Acqua di Parma line or Geo Trumpers, or Taylor's of Old Bond Street, or The Art of Shaving or Dermalogica, you can't really go wrong. But let me tell you about my daily routine when it comes to getting a close shave.

When showering, I like to use Dermalogica's face cleaner to soften my beard. Their products are gentle and smell great. I also like the Fresh Line of facial cleansers - -the olive scent for men is supreme. Once I've showered, the daily ritual of a clean shave is essential. I start with applying the Art of Shaving pre-shave oil. I've tried a number of pre-shave oils including Anthony's, Dermalogica, Trueffitt & Hill, and Taylor's, but there's something about the thickness and consistency of the Art of Shaving pre-shave oil that preps your beard like nothing else possibly can. Once I've prepped, I take my Acqua di Parma badger brush (the softest brush that money can buy) and dab some Acqua di Parma shaving cream on to the brush. Their shaving cream is great, but a little tough on consistency, so I soften it in hot water before applying to the badger. I then swirl the badger brush in a circular motion all over my neck and face, forming a rich lather. The aim here is to ensure that the thick lather completely covers your face so you can't see a trace of your beard. Then, using a Mach 3 blade on a heavy razor, I begin to shave in gentle, yet firm strokes. Aah...it feels heavenly. Once done, I re-lather, and shave against the grain. This gives an incredibly close shave, especially in areas on the neck. I then dab my face with cold water to close the pores and voila -- an awesome shave. But it isn't over yet. To ensure the skin is not dry, I use Kiehl's non alcoholic herbal toner to cool off. Kiehl's has an excellent line of products and their toner hydrates the face. Many guys make the mistake of using alcohol based post shave lotions or after shave to dab their face -- don't do it. Not a good thing for your face. Of course, if you use a straight edge razor, you're one up on me. I don't have the guts to use one. I will say that The Borgata in Atlantic City gives awesome shaves - so does the Art of Shaving on Madison Avenue.

That Turnbull Shirt

I took my wife over to Turnbull and Asser in NYC on Saturday. I love that store. It's got the coolest shirts and ties and cufflinks that would make Demosthenes stammer. In fact, I've never seen prettier enamel initialized cufflinks than the ones at Turnbull. They'll run you 290 a pop and take about 5 weeks to make, but when you wear them, you'll see they're worth every penny you paid. Turnbull also makes some incredible shirts. Their lavender shirts are to die for and better priced than Brioni or Borrelli. Yet, the quality is outstanding, the craftsmanship, superb.

Upstairs at their 57th street hang, Simon is no longer the tailor -- he's moved to T&A in California. But Felix is an awesome guy and can fit you well. I also love the Churchill poster upstairs. All in all a great store and great experience. Buy a Turnbull shirt today. I don't think you'l l ever live to regret it.